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1900's Chemise-Unmentionables Through The Decades Project 4


The next piece I made for my 1900's ensemble was the chemise. This was the first layer a lady would put on when dressing. A similar garment (called a shift) also functioned as a nightgown from the Medieval period to the 18th centrury or so. But from what I gather, nightgowns and chemises were different items by this time period. A wealthy Edwardian lady would no doubt own many chemises and nightgowns, both everyday and fancy. A lady of more modest means might only own a few.


I used more of the same green sheet to match the drawers. Again, I used the “Edwardian Undergarments” pattern by Truly Victorian. Overall, it's a easy-to-follow pattern. The only part that was challenging was inserting the front and back yoke. You have to gather the main body of the chemise to fit the length of the yoke. Then you attach the sides in a particular way. On the front yoke, I sewed on the beaded trim and on the back yoke I did not. Otherwise, the front and the back look very similar. In the end, all raw edges are folded under and covered. The inside is neat and tidy, which I appreciate. Just take time to read the instructions and an intermediate sewist should have little problem. I was a little low on fabric (because I used recycled materials), so I had to shorten it a few inches. Thankfully, I am short and it's still plenty long enough.


The white beaded trim and yellow ribbon are the same as used on the drawers,. I love matching outfits so much! The whole effect is so fresh, light, and clean. So “Spring”. I don't know about you, but I need something bright and cheerful right about now.


“Beading trim” is a trim, usually white or cream, that has slits incorporated in the design. Contrasting ribbon is woven in and out of those slits. The effect looks like little “beads” of color on the surface. This was a very popular style of trim in period and ever since. I almost chose lavender instead of yellow ribbon, but I think I made the right choice here. On both the chemise and the drawers, I handsewed all the trim. This way the stiches don't show on the right side of the garment.


From my online quick and casual research, a lady of the Edwardian Era would wear her drawers under her chemise. When the chemise was shown tucked into the drawers in period, it was usually an ad for the drawers. In an ad, the product must be visible, so that makes sense. I am showing both styles here and in the previous blog, simply to show the drawers.


Again, as with the drawers, I only regret using so little trim. Both pieces should be so much more ornate and detailed. But I still love this set so far. I think I'll have to tackle a corset myself (insert terrified screaming here). Wish me luck!

Thanks for reading!

Yours in hard work, creativity, and a dash of pixie dust,
Sarah
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