Skip to main content

1900's Ruffle Butt (Or, a bustle) - Unmentionables Through The Decades

My YouTube video associated with this blog

The next step in my continuing quest to become a Gibson Girl was to make a bum pad. I knew I needed a little more oomph in the back then nature has provided me for a fashionable Edwardian silhouette. This period is all about curves and flowing, smooth lines. Padding strategic areas was a common period trick to create curves. It is lovingly referred to as my Ruffle Butt. Because who doesn't want ruffle butt?

The fabric is scraps from a green polyester brocade tablecloth. It's a pretty design, although the fabric was a bit of a hassle to sew. It's prone to fraying. If I recall correctly, it was from Joann Fabrics, in one of their seasonal spring collections. I've had it for years, and this is the year of “Reduce the Stash”. And it looked beautiful with the other pieces I've already made, so it was a win all around.


I wasn't sure how I wanted to make this at first. I didn't really want to pay for a pattern, and I didn't find any that worked for this purpose anyway. Looking on Pinterest for some inspiration for this piece, I found an image of a patent from 1907. This “Bustle or distender” was patented by Theodore J Wall. He specifies that it is “constructed to permit of free ventilation, thereby rendering the same more comfortable to the wearer...” Sounds good to me. Why not give it a go?


I couldn't find any measurements listed on the patent, so I had to make it up as I went along. I just made a “U” with my fabric and fiddled around until it seemed to be the right shape. Then I measured the final length each ruffle should be and multiplied that by 3 to get the cut length. For super full ruffles, that is a good ratio. For less full ruffles,length x 2 or even 1.5 would be better. Each of the ruffles were made of a strip of the fabric 3 inches wide. One long edge and both short edges were hemmed. The other long edge was gathered with long machine stitches. I took a 1.5 inch width strip of fabric and ironed the raw edges inward twice. So it ends up making a bias tape, but on the straight grain. Then, the ruffle was attached to that, just to cover the raw edges of the ruffle.

The long ruffle that makes the outer “U” shape was a 70 inch strip, gathered down to 21 inches. The other three ruffles were 45 inches long, gathered down to about 13 inches. All of the ruffles were gathered down quite tightly, for maximum volume and poof.


I am quite pleased with the overall effect. It adds just a gentle touch of oomph in just the right place. I don't know why I decided to go with this design, since I usually dislike sewing ruffles. But it wasn't so frustrating after all. It took a total of maybe 6 hours over several days.


Yours in hard work, creativity, and a dash of pixie dust,

Sarah

Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Bow-Tie Necklet

Are you, dear reader, in the mood for some winter accessories? Or, like me, are you already anxious for spring to arrive? The only good thing about winter is the cute accessories, I always say. I have a big canvas basket full of scarves, gloves, mittens, and hats. I have a black and also a purple peacoat. Plus my dramatic leopard print fleece cape, which I have previously discussed. Simply put, I don't like to be boring with my accessorizing. It is my only source of cheer and happiness when preparing for a cold winter's day. Ok, enough with the dramatics. On with the subject of today's blog. I knit this up several years ago. This is what the pattern calls a “Bow-Tie Necklet”. It is a scarf, but not in a traditional long rectangle shape. One end is pulled through a loop on the opposite side, forming a sort of bow tie. I have seen several examples in mid century photos of similar knit scarves that seem to have been made the same way. Of course, I forgot to save them/
Post a Comment
Read more

Disney's The Little Mermaid - Ariel's Blue Dress

    Anyone who has spent more than 3 minutes with me knows I'm obsessed with Disney. My three favorite movies are Beauty and the Beast, The Little Mermaid, and Aladdin. So for Halloween 2011, I made a version of Ariel's blue dress. She wears during "Kiss the Girl" scene and when they are riding in the carriage around Eric's kingdom. . It was fairly easy to make. I used McCall's 4090 (View A), a simple skirt with a waistband. For the bodice/over corset, I used another McCall's, 4861 (view A). I didn't want side lacing, so I just traced each of the four pieces separately, then taped them together at the sides, overlapping the seam allowance. This left me with the back lacing only. When it was assembled, I roughly "eye-balled" the sweetheart-shaped neckline and cut it out. The shirt was made with Simplicity 3677. I just added cuffs to the sleeves instead of elastic. A couple things I lea
3 comments
Read more

Reconstructing History RH017

This is review of RH017, 14th Century Kirtle or  Cotehardie. (Link to buy this patten at the end) I ordered it to make a new dress for the 2015 Medieval Fair of Norman. I had been playing a princess for many years, but decided on changing it up this year. I wanted to be a Bard, a poet/singer/general performer. Naturally, I could not wear the Princess gowns of years past.  It came in a timely fashion. I knew it had a booklet of historical notes, I didn't know it was going to come with a textbook! Seriously, this booklet is 15 pages long (including historical notes, bibliography, actual construction, and a section on period stiches) and is in an easy to digest format. The pattern is on regular paper, not the usual tissue paper, which I appreciated. I had trouble with setting the sleeves, but it was my own fault. I made it oversized purposefully to adjust down to my exact size, and didn't quite adjust the sleeves to match correctly the first time. My own fault. I will post
Post a Comment
Read more