The Singing Costumer

  This dress. Oh boy, this dress. Where do I even start? I guess, the very beginning is a very good place to start. This dress has been in progress since 2016. It’s made of a pink quilting cotton with a blue and cream floral design. The garment consists of a separate skirt and bodice. It closes down the front with hooks and bars, and the skirt attaches to the blouse in the same way. It started its life as Simplicity 5442. It has gone through several changes since then. Originally, this was made for a college broadway revue show. I made this for Joanna from Sweeney Todd.  My voice teacher from college was teaching voice at another school and needed some costumes. This was when I was starting to get really interested in historic dress and costumes. The pattern was for a sheer dress, fashionable in the Victorian era. I used the pieces marked for the sheer layer and just made it in the cotton. The pattern has a lot of gathering and is very pretty. I knew that I wanted to keep it, so I boug

  Moving on to the next and most important pieces in this “Delilah” ensemble. I used Simplicity 8162 for the stays. This pattern is by American Duchess for Simplicity, and I was pleased with it. This brown cotton twill was in my stash. But I thought this project needed a bit of pizzazz.  I am obsessed with the leopard print bias binding I used (found on Etsy). It really elevates this garment to the next level. As per usual for my boned garments, I used heavy duty zip ties. Getting the boning channels marked on the twill was quite annoying and tedious, but I managed in the end. All the channels were stitched by machine. I used my machine to sew almost everything on her. I think the only handstitching on this is the eyelets. I set small eyelets up the front and back, and then hand embroidered around each one.  I really don’t care that the sewing machine wasn’t invented in the 18th century. I’ll say this again, in case it isn’t obvious. I am aiming for historical accuracy in shape and sil

  I have quite a difficult time focusing on one time period. One minute, I’ll have grand ideas for a huge bustle gown. The next minute, I’m dreaming of medieval cloaks in warm, delicious, soft wool. It’s a problem, let me tell you. This year, I am trying my best to finish projects that have languished too long in Unfinished Objects purgatory. (The size of my UFO pile is embarrassing.) This set hasn’t been waiting as long as other projects, but I’m incredibly excited just the same. It is the underpinnings for an early-to-mid 18th century middle class ensemble. I’m calling this set “Delilah”. I have decided to name my sets, just for fun. I am getting close to my goal of sewing an undergarment set for every major fashion period in the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries.  I need to make a Regency set and an early Victorian set, and I need to finish a few other projects for other time periods. But I’m almost there.  The idea for this project was born when I found a fun leopard print quilt at Go

  For the blouse, I used a lightweight polkadot satin from my stash. I don’t remember where I got it, but probably Joann Fabrics. I used Truly Victorian 1903 Plain Blousewaist. I made size E. But it might have been better to make the back size F and the front size E. I have to corset down pretty tightly for it to fit. (I am still learning how to size Truly Victorian correctly.) There was a step in the instructions that I didn’t understand until I actually did it. But the pattern was clear. This polkadot satin was too light and flimsy, I thought.I used one layer of fashion fabric and one layer of white cotton for the front, back, and the sleeves. Each piece was serged around each edge except the neckline.  I really wanted some pleats down the center front, since I saw that feature so often in antique fashion plates. I should have sewed the pleats first and then cut out the front piece. Instead, I added some width in the center and just hoped for the best. The neckline unfortunately went